By Adriana Ermter
In our monthly column, senior writer and editor Adriana Ermter shares her personal experiences with breast cancer.
My boobs —and the breast cancer that once lived inside my right one and armpit —are not a brand. They are not tattooed with the pink ribbon associated with the disease I was diagnosed with, the disease for which I had invasive and painful surgery, lost my libido, an ice-cream-scoop-sized piece of flesh, and my self-esteem, and suffered through round after round of debilitating treatments, including a daily dose of Tamoxifen with every single one of its side effects, for years. If I wanted to brand my boobs, I’d slap a gold star on them for seeing me through to the other side.
And yet, somehow, each October, breast cancer morphs into being more than a life-taking disease. It becomes a metaphorically branded pink train that clothing, makeup, skincare, jewellery, appliances, hotels, restaurants, fast food chains, and even oil and gas drill bit companies jump onto, brandishing the small pink ribbon as a statement of support.
It's called “pinkwashing”, which the BreastCancer.org describes as a type of cause marketing—a partnership between a for-profit business and a charity, where the business uses the pink ribbon to promote the sales of their products and/or their services. The idea is: a portion of the money or profits from these pink ribbon sales will go to a breast cancer-based charity. Many do. Many are also peddling pink-ribboned products made with harmful ingredients or ones that use their goodwill for political means, selling products that misrepresent or marginalize those living with the disease or worse.
None of this is new. The term “pinkwashing” was coined 22 years ago by activist and watchdog organization Breast Cancer Action in response to the growing breast cancer awareness movement and its subsequent pink ribbon. Frustrated with the lack of accountability, transparency and hypocrisy in marketing, they created the “Think Before You Go Pink” campaign in 2002 to stop the exploitation of breast cancer patients and breast cancer, and to encourage consumers to ask questions about pink ribbon promotions. Asking the right questions is crucial for me, you, and everyone else, as it can help separate the brands genuinely committed to supporting breast cancer causes from those that aren’t.
And there are some great companies out there. Estée Lauder, for example, has been a significant supporter of breast cancer research through its Breast Cancer Campaign and partnership with the Breast Cancer Research Foundation since 1992. Initiated by breast cancer survivor Evelyn H. Lauder (Estée’s daughter-in-law, who was rumoured to have co-created the pink ribbon with Alexandra Penney, a former editor-in-chief of Self magazine), the brand, along with The Campaign, has funded more than US$131 million for global research to date.
Kruger’s Cashmere bathroom tissue is another advocate. Their annual Cashmere Collection runway show has intrigued Canada’s fashion community for more than 20 years, with its toilet paper-crafted couture by top fashion designers. This year’s October 30th event is an interactive one, as viewers will vote online for the design they like best. Each vote donates CAD$1 per vote to the Canadian Cancer Society and the Quebec Breast Cancer Foundation for up to a maximum of CAD$50,000—all in support of breast cancer prevention and treatment programs.
Still, you need to be smart about your choices to ensure that your dollars are effectively supporting the fight against breast cancer, contributing to impactful organizations and promoting real change rather than merely serving as a marketing strategy for increased sales. Three good questions to ask before pulling out your wallet are:
1. How Much of the Proceeds Actually Go to the Cause?
- Why It’s Important: Companies often market products with pink ribbons or breast cancer themes, but the amount donated to the cause can be minimal or capped at a low limit. For example, a product may only donate a few cents per purchase, or the brand might only contribute up to a certain amount, regardless of sales. Understanding the exact financial contribution helps to ensure your purchase has a meaningful impact and prevents brands from engaging in “pinkwashing,” where they appear to support a cause without significant contributions.
- What to Look For: Look for clear statements about donation percentages, dollar amounts, and caps on contributions. A company should disclose how the funds are distributed and specify if there’s a cap on donations or a fixed percentage of profits allocated. My rule of thumb is: if they won’t say, don’t pay.
2. What Organization or Cause is Receiving the Donation and How Will it be Used?
- Why It’s Important: Not all organizations use donations in the same way. Some may focus on research, others on patient support and some on awareness campaigns. Asking this question helps you confirm if the organization receiving the funds aligns with your values and that funds are used effectively. Transparency in this area also indicates that the brand has done due diligence in selecting a reputable partner.
- What to Look For: Check if the company mentions the specific organization receiving the funds, details of how the money will be used (e.g., research grants, patient services), and any partnerships.
3. Does the Company Have a History of Supporting the Cause Beyond Marketing Campaigns?
- Why It’s Important: Companies may engage in cause marketing as a one-time promotional effort, but a long-term commitment to the cause is a better indicator of genuine support. This could include year-round fundraising, corporate policies supporting employees with breast cancer, or long-standing partnerships with breast cancer organizations. Companies with ongoing initiatives and a history of donations are more likely to be committed to making a positive impact rather than leveraging cause marketing for short-term sales boosts.
- What to Look For: Evaluate the brand’s history of contributions to breast cancer causes, employee policies and other philanthropic activities. Transparency reports and past donation records are good indicators of commitment. A brand that has supported breast cancer initiatives for many years, like Cashmere or Estée Lauder, is typically more credible than one launching a one-off single campaign during October, the month designated to Breast Cancer Awareness.
At the end of the day, picking up a pink ribbon product can do a lot of good for you, me, and other women dealing with breast cancer. Just be aware, ask questions, and do your due diligence to avoid contributing to the pinkwash. It’s in all of our best interest.
Adriana Ermter is a multi-award-winning writer and editor. Her work can be read in Sotheby’s Insight, Living Luxe and IN Magazine, as well as online at 29Secrets.com, RethinkBreastCancer.ca and AmongMen.com. The former Beauty Director for FASHION and former Editor-in-Chief for Salon Magazine, Childview and Figure Skater Fitness magazines lives in Toronto with her two very spoiled rescue cats, Murphy and Olive. You can follow Adriana on Instagram @AdrianaErmter
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